一位在墨西哥普埃布拉城內相當知名的國際主廚曾告訴我:「如果你知道有多少間塔可餅專賣店因為做出美味的 salsa 而成功,你一定會感到驚訝,我自己就是用 salsa 好吃的程度為塔可餅店排名的。」
也就是說,salsa 在墨西哥料理中的地位可不容小覷!這可能大家都知道,但不是每個人都能夠形容出一份好的 salsa 醬該有的味道。好吧,說實在的,這的確沒那麼簡單!
首先,由習慣吃辣的人來評斷 salsa 的辛辣程度,就不太有參考價值。例如出生於墨西哥南方邊境恰帕斯的 Irene,是她教會我怎麼製作基本的辣味番茄 Salsa 醬,但嗜辣成習的她已經無法判斷某道料理中到底是否含有胡椒。因為這麼多年來,她都把塞拉諾辣椒 (serrano chilli) 當成爽口配菜,以致於她現在對於史高維爾辣度指標 4,000 單位以下的食物已經沒什麼感覺了。這邊有一些數據供你參考:西班牙紅椒粉 (paprika) 辣度大約 500 單位,而警用催淚瓦斯辣度至少有 500,000 單位。這就是辣椒的文化背景,食用 Salsa 醬也是表達文化的一種方式,整個體驗過程可以很歡愉,也可能變成一種度日如年的虐待。
▲ 塞拉諾辣椒與醃漬辣椒
Salsa 指的是什麼呢?台灣人一聽到 Salsa,大腦應該會自動選用英文發音,並馬上聯想到名為騷莎的拉丁舞蹈。說來說去,到底什麼是 Salsa?答案非常簡單,Salsa 一詞為西班牙文中「醬料」的意思,這個詞彙在西班牙語中用途非常廣泛,從醬油 (salsa de soya) 到波隆那肉醬 (salsa boloñesa) 中的「醬」都是用這個字。但是在英文用語中,Salsa 這個字的不同用法就十分明顯,因為大家都知道,只要提到 Salsa ,不是墨西哥式醬料…… 就是那非洲古巴風格的舞蹈。
而誤會就從這裡開始,因為人們以為 Salsa 醬一定是辣的,但事實並非如此,就像大家總覺得騷莎舞一定性感火辣,但 Salsa 其實泛指各種舞蹈,就像功夫是所有武術的總稱一樣。希望你們沒被我搞糊塗了,Salsa 當然還是辣的好,好比騷莎舞就是要性感!所以說啦,以下是我們都該大啖 Salsa的五大理由(以下統稱莎莎醬),一起狂歡吧!
1.吃辣能助你在饑荒中存活下來
在冰箱問世之前,人們採用鹽醃、煙燻,或者用醋或鹽水浸漬等比較麻煩的方式來保存食物。但在一場饑荒中還是會遇到問題,因為你知道的,貓貓狗狗也很愛牛肉乾或火腿之類的東西。我是沒餵過貓咪吃醃菜,但我很確定牠們不喜歡吃辣。因此,如果你身處世界末日般的大災難,必須從上述的食物保存法選出一種,在你對抗其他肉食性動物時,辣椒可以助你一臂之力!更別說一起在生存遊戲中競爭的法國人,他們也不會來搶你的辣味醃肉了。(編按:因為法國人普遍不愛吃辣啦)
2.品嚐各種辣味,豐富你的飲食經驗
這應該不難理解吧,如果你從不吃辣,你真的會錯過很多體驗。光是墨西哥料理就會用到 14 種不同品種的辣椒,因此就算只把辣椒磨碎並和油拌勻,就可以做出 14 種基本款莎莎醬。根據這個邏輯繼續搭配組合,會延伸出各式各樣的醬料,每一種醬料都有專屬的西班牙文名字,喝醉的莎莎醬 Salsa borracha、堅強女孩莎莎醬 Salsa macha、海岸莎莎醬 Salsa costeña、勇敢莎莎醬(野醬)Salsa brava、酪梨莎莎醬 Salsa de aguacate、花生莎莎醬 Salsa de cacahuate、石臼研磨莎莎醬 Salsa de molcajete 等,另外還有 30 種以上不同的食譜。對了,上述的醬料還只是用來搭配塔可餅的,並不是單獨食用的料理。而針對醃製的鹵水可還有另一串清單,另外,就像印度人的咖哩或其他料理有專屬的名稱,阿茲特克人的納瓦特爾語中就使用了「混醬 (Mole) 」這個名詞,來統稱可以直接淋在烹煮好的肉類或蔬菜上享用,比較濃稠醇厚的醬料。
▲ 由左至右:基本款辣椒莎莎醬、喝醉的莎莎醬、堅強女孩莎莎醬、野醬、酪梨莎莎醬
各式 Salsa 醬的名稱也許有些隨意,有時直接採用醬汁的食材做命名,但也可能聽起來完全不知所以然。比如酪梨醬 Salsa de aguacate ,非常簡單扼要,就是 Salsa verde 青醬加酪梨的組合,但另一方面,也有 Pico de Gallo 公雞嘴醬這種名稱,只有把心智年齡調整到墨西哥小六男生對異性充滿好奇的年紀,才能讀出背後的隱喻。所以,想要更精確地描述這些 Salsa 醬,當然可以直接用食材來命名,但這就會變成一條落落長的清單啦!有興趣的話可以去 Google 食譜,否則在這繼續講下去,恐怕沒有說完的一天呢!
3.吃辣會讓你「慾火焚身」
如果你是一個嚴格的禁慾主義者,那麼這或許是你不吃辣的理由。但如果沒有這些限制,而你又想來點急速的快感,辣椒的強勁感受,能讓你忍不住大喊一聲「哇啊!」。還不只這樣呢!如此這般的炙熱會使臉頰紅潤,並微微地刺激口腔,或許來點現擠檸檬汁可以緩和一下,或者是來個吻也不賴!另外,吃辣也是開胃妙方!
4.煮熟的番茄是超強大的抗氧化劑
雖然這已經是個潮流了,但在我們意識到要多攝取足夠的抗氧化物以前,古代的西班牙與義大利人早就知道了!但其實際運作的細節已經超過我的專業領域,可能用煉金術或魔法來形容是最貼切不過了!但基本上,烹煮番茄時將會失去維生素,但卻會獲得一種很棒的抗氧化劑— —茄紅素。補充了這些營養成份,你會老得比較慢喔!
▲ 由煮熟番茄製成的 Salsa 醬
5.一點疼痛是對你有好處的!
有些人追求肉體上的苦痛,是為了感覺自己真真切切地「活著」!乍聽之下也許有點愚蠢,這種為了得到快感而懲罰自己的行為,著實令人不解。這樣算是被虐狂嗎?對的,不過其實也只是輕微、適量的程度吧。就像坐雲霄飛車或看恐怖片一樣,所承受的恐懼和痛苦都在掌控之中,這樣小小的衝擊,就是在提醒著我們,自己還好好地活著。不只如此,口腔中那股麻燙的灼燒感,讓你更容易產生欣喜若狂的心情,這也是件好事,對吧?
文:Julio
編譯:Patricia Ma
編輯:Jean Kuo
圖:Julio 提供、BP&O、SAVEUR、JUST ADD HOT SAUCE、Lider.cl、Caffe col Cioccolato、Jamie Oliver、NY Times、s-media、SAVEUR 2、FLAVOR AND FRIENDS、yes more please、Gastronomía en verso、cocinillas.es、Major Hoff Takes A Wife、a couple cooks
5 Reasons why salsa is good for you
A very good international chef that no one knows outside Puebla once told me: “you’d be surprised to know how many taco places are successful just because they make pretty good salsa, I rate taco shops according to their salsa.”
That’s to say that salsa is a pretty serious business in Mexican cuisine. Everybody knows that, but not many people can describe what a good salsa is supposed to taste like. But to be fair, it’s not as simple as it sounds.
For one, there’s the spiciness, something for which a regular chilli eater is actually not a good reference for gauging how hot a sauce is. Irene for example, –native from Chiapas (south Mexican border) and the person who taught me how to make a basic spicy tomato-, can’t tell anymore whether there’s black pepper or not in a dish; she’s been eating serrano chilli as if they were pickles for years, and now she is numb to anything less spicy than 4,000 Scoville units. And just to give you an idea, paprika is something around 500 Scoville while police tear gas ranges at minimum of 500,000 units. So that’s the first cultural part to eating chilli, and eating salsa is a strong cultural expression, one that can turn the experience into either a pleasure or a slow torture.
▲ Serrano Chilli & pickles
What is a salsa? People hear this in Taiwan and immediately think of Latin dance and when they do it, they also think about it with an English accent. So, what is salsa? The answer is very simple, salsa is the Spanish word for sauce. That’s very broad and it covers all the range rom “salsa de soya” (soy sauce) to “salsa boloñesa” (Bolognese sauce). The main difference appears when you use the word in English, because then everybody knows that you’re talking about Mexican sauce… or the Afro-Cuban dance style.
That’s where the confusion starts, because people will also think about salsa as being necessarily hot or spicy, which is not always the case; and the same goes for the dance, people think salsa is always sexy or hot, but yet again it’s a very broad generic term to refer to a dance style, just like KungFu is for martial arts. But don’t be confused by all this, salsa is still best when spicy and used to refer to hot salsa, just like the dance. That being said, here are five reasons why you should eat salsa, let’s dance!
1. Eating spicy will make you less prone to starvation.
Before refrigeration there was other more troublesome ways to keep food longer, like salt-curing, smoking or pickling. But there’s other problems when you think that cats and dogs still love beef jerky, or ham. I haven’t tried feeding pickles to a cat, but I’m sure that they don’t like spicy. So, if you’re in an apocalyptic scenario and have to choose between one of the formerly mentioned methods to preserve your game, using chilli will give you an evolutive advantage over other predators. Not to mention that will keep French from wanting to get some of your spicy preserves.
2. Knowing to taste different kinds of spicy will enrich your culinary landscape.
This is very straightforward, if you don’t eat chilli, you’re really missing out, but there’s more. There being over 14 different varieties of peppers used in Mexican cuisine only, you can make 14 different basic salsas with only ground chili and oil. And going winding down that road, it gets more and more complicated; there’s also the labelling of each salsa according to it’s Spanish name: Salsa borracha (Drunken Salsa), salsa macha (Tough-girl Salsa) , salsa costeña (Seaside Salsa), salsa brava (Brave Salsa), salsa de aguacate (Avocado Salsa), salsa de cacahuate (Peanut Salsa), salsa de molcajete (Mortar Salsa) and over 30 other different recipes. It might be useful to know that these are only for adding to whatever kind of taco you’re eating, these are not stand alone dishes. There’s a different list for marinades and, just like Indian food and their curry, there’s a native word, nahuatl (Aztec’s tongue), for thicker, more robust stand-alone sauces that you can just pour over your favourite concocted dead animal or dead plant: Mole.
▲ From left to right: Basic Chili Salsa, Drunken Salsa, Tough-girl Salsa, Brave Salsa, Avocado Salsa
Names for salsa can be very arbitrary, sometimes they are straight descriptions of what’s in the salsa, but sometimes it might sound like plain nonsense. Salsa de aguacate (Avocado Salsa) it’s pretty straight forward, it’s just a salsa verde (green) with avocado; on the other hand of this simple-complicated spectrum, we have Pico de Gallo (Cock’s beak) which can only be understood if you get into the dirty mindset of the average Mexican sixth grader. So, to describe each salsa better, we could just say what it’s made of, but that’s just listing ingredients, and for that matter, we’ll be better off googling a recipe book than list all of them here.
3. Eating spicy makes your “horny”.
That might actually be a reason not to eat spicy if you’re an uptight ascetic, but if you ‘re not and like to feel a rush of desire going through your mouth, then chilli can give you the extra boost you need to go “groar!”. Plus, you get a heat sensation that blushes your cheeks and a slightly triggers an oral anxiety that can be quenched by some fresh lime juice, or a kiss. It also stimulates your appetite.
4. Cooked tomato is a powerful anti-oxidant.
It’s a fad now, but ancient per-hispanic people and Italians knew it long before we all got concerned about consuming enough anti-oxidants. The details about how it works escape my field of expertise and can be best described as alchemy or magic. But basically if you cook tomatoes you lose on vitamins but gain on lycopene, and that is a good anti-oxidants; you’ll rot slower if you get your fix of those.
▲ Salsa made with cooked tomatoes
5. A bit of pain is good for you.
It’s sounds stupid at first when you think some people seek pain in order to feel “alive” and it’s indeed a mystery why some people punish themselves in order to feel pleasure. Masochism, yes, but in very small healthy doses. Just like riding a roller coaster or watching a horror movie; the controlled exposure to pain or fear will give you a small contrasting shock that reminds your body that you’re doing ok. Not only that, you can step closer to an ecstatic state of mind when numbed by the burning sensation in your mouth. And that’s a good thing too, right?
Guest writer – Julio
Born and raised in Mexico City, I studied catering and service in France. Later on I also studied Chinese cuisine in Beijing and then Thai cuisine in Chiangmai for a shorter period. My heart is split between food and studying, I’m undertaking graduate studies at NCCU and starting my own food business at TongHua night market. I try my best to keep both parts of my heart beating at unison to tell the story of what tastes like and what is meaningful about it. If you love Mexican food, you can find me on my Facebook page and my blog!
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